The Immeasurable Wilds: Travellers to the Far North of Scotland

John Pedder (1850-1929), an Artist in the Far North

Since writing my book, The Immeasurable Wilds, I have become somewhat obsessed with finding original artwork of the Far North of Scotland. Because access was so difficult, there is of course little from the 19th century, particularly of the North Coast region. I was very excited, therefore, when a large collection of the work of John Pedder came up for sale, offered by his great-grandson. Clearly he had spent some time exploring seriously Sutherland and the North. I bought a number of items relevant to my interest, which I display below. None of the artwork is dated though luckily the locations are often noted. Pedder died in 1929. I suspect he made his visit to the far north in the early 20th century. However, some of the paper he used has an embossed stamp "R.S.W" (Royal Society of Watercolourists) and it is dated 1804. I have taken some of these paintings to a paper conservator, who immediately commented on the excellent quality of the paper he used. The paper is 19th century, but he has lined the edges of one or two of them to protect them using documents with the dates 1922 and 1924.  Of course these linings might have been added well after the paintings had been completed. Whenever these were painted, they are a scarce record of a region rarely explored in such detail by an outsider at that time.

One of two fine views of Whiten Head, titled at the top "Whitenhead Point(?) from the Heilem Shepherd's House(?)." I think the view is more likely to be from the Rispond vicinity.

The other view of Whitenhead, titled on the back simply "Whitenhead, Loch Eriboll."

There are a number of views of Loch Eriboll.

"Loch Eriboll, from Ferry Peninsula". This is a view looking south from Heilem.

Titled "Loch Eriboll" at the bottom, this is a view from the shore opposite Heilem, with the Ferry that connected to the Peninsula. The summit of Ben Hope can be seen in the distance.

A particularly interesting item, which Pedder has carefully titled "Creag na Faoilinn, Head of Loch Eriboll" on the back. Creag na Faoilinn is a not particularly significant feature in the landscape, and it is interesting that he knew what it is called, and that he made a point of painting it. It is an important feature geologically - I wonder if he had some geological knowledge. If these paintings were done in the 1910s or 1920s, the work of the Geological Survey would have been completed and published for all to see. Pedder may well also have had an interest in fishing. He adds to this title on the back "a play ground for sea trout."

Titled simply "Eribol", this gives a lovely view down the loch with the harbour and Lime Kilns on Ard Neakie. Shipping has been sketched in in a ghostly fashion.

This is titled "Nr Eriboll." I'm not sure exactly where it is.

Two images of Ben Loyal show that at some point he travelled along the north coast.

This one titled "Ben Loyal, Tongue"....                             .....and this one "Ben Loyal, from Head of Kyle of Tongue."

"Rhu Stoer, from Scourie." Moving to the West Coast, a view south to Stoer Head, with the Old Man of Stoer just visible.

Heading further south, we find these two images of the same place. The one on the left is untitled, but luckily, the more extended one on the right is clearly titled on the back "Loch Bhaid darraich  Scourie, Sutherland." Loch Bhaid Daraich  lies a short distance NE of the Hotel at Scourie.

A bit of a long shot, this, but I wondered if this untitled view 

could be Badcall, or Scourie Bay. On the back is a pencil sketch that might be the Quinag ridge from Loch Assynt, which would suggest a northern site for this bay.

Pedder also ventured inland. This painting is given a full title: "Loch Meidie near Altnaharra, the Southern end of the loch, looking north towards the Sabhols and Foinavon." In 2011 the John O' Groat Journal titled an article on Loch Meadie "Well off the Beaten Track in Barest Sutherland."

This, on the other hand, is simply titled "Altnaharra."

Further south still is "Shin River, Lairg."

This, Pedder notes, is the "1st sketch made in Sutherland."He titles this simply "Moorland, Lake and Lodge." Chris McNeill has identified the site as Loch Merkland. He thinks the hills in the background include Meallan Liath Coire Mhic Dhughaill - these are the hills that lie SE of Ben Arkle.

I had originally thought this was Loch Griam just south of Bettyhill, but when the painting underwent a little restoration work, it became clear that the mountain in the distance is Ben More Assynt, so this must be Loch a Ghriama, which is north of Loch Shin, not far from Loch Merkland (see above).

Another interesting image, which he titles clearly "Loch Glen Dhu" (though at first he thought it was Loch Glencoul. 'Coul' is crossed out). It looks as though he has walked some way down (see the page on my walk down Loch Dhu), though there is no sign of the remains of Mr Clark's house, nor a bothy.

A similar image, but without a title. There is faint writing bottom right, but I think it is just another signature. Could this be looking down Loch Glencoul?

There is a second version of the same view in the collection.

There are a number of images of the Torridon area.

I had thought this might be Loch Eriboll, but it is faintly titled "Torridon" in the margin.

Again, this is titled simply "Torridon." I thought it might be Ben Alligin, but Chris McNeill is confident that it is mighty Liathach.

There is no doubt that this is Ben Alligin, though, not least because it has the title.

"Loch an Iasgaich, Glen Torridon."

"Shieldaig, Loch Torridon." A nice image, with an upturned boat on the left, nets drying on the shore, thatched cottages, and even a person!

This, fully titled on the back "Torridon House Burn. The falls over the top pool." The Torridon Estate lies beneath Liathach and Ben Alligin.

From Torridon, Pedder seems to have moved on to Skye.

To finish, two fine views of the Quiraing, the one below with the added note "1 Drawing of this made, 30 x 20. Dv (David) Colman. His name appears on the back of some of these paintings. It seems as though Pedder made copies of those for Mr Colman.